Stanley hand planes dating

The content is the methods of refinishing I use when I was refinishing planes a pay for service.. I must have done over hand planes over the last five years but sorry to say I no longer offer this service.. So you can read my web site and try it your self..

How to Identify Stanley Hand Plane Age and Type (Type Study Tool)

I got great satisfaction from bringing a plane destine for the scrap heap back to life.. Every customer that I worked for was happy with my work so I think these methods are sound and will work for you.. At long last I am planning a get together End of April begining of May.. There will be a BBQ and a Basic Hand Planing Class, Tool sale and you will be able to use my bench and slow speed grinders for sharpening plane blades.. Bring any tools you would like to sell or trade..

Contact info at the bottom of the page. I had the first free classes on how to refinish hand planes this summer, I had three students that I knew only from the internet forums come.. I think class when well for my first but I soon realized that they would have appreciated learning more of how to plane that how to refinish an old plane..

So the next class was more of a clinic to tune bench planes and show how to use them.. This class I think was much better though I did not get even close to telling what I know as once we stated tuning hand planes the how to when out the door: We talk hand planes from The main purpose was to have a day out with tool people and have a good time with people that share our passion for hand tools..

If you would like to go on my contact list send me an e-mail to Johnny at the domain name dot com I don't post a link as it cuts down on spam.. Thanks, Johnny Kleso Rex, Ga. So far I have only flatten blade backs and it works super. I have clad the plywood with a sheet of SS metal and will build or buy a tool rest soon..

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You can view the images and description.. Another form of damage I've noticed on them is one I can never understand how it ever happened in the first place. The screws used to secure the frog to the bottom casting actually poke through the sole! The cause of this is because the washers were not used along with the screws, which means that the sole had to be drilled in order for the screws to seat.

This damage is very easy to recognize - flip the plane over and look for two screws staring back at you. You'll cringe in horror the first time you ever see it. The screws used to secure the frog to the base have round heads, and not flat ones the earliest larger bench planes had round heads, but later were changed to flat ones. Also, the frog, and its mating to the bottom, only underwent one redesign during its production, which is far less than the redesigns the larger bench planes had done to them.

The earliest models have an I-shaped, or H-shaped depending upon how it's viewed receiving area for the frog. Subsequent models have the broad and flat receiving area. Strangely, more than a few of these planes are missing their knobs.

Maybe it's because junior stole them to play marbles, or something like that. The knobs of the 98 and 99 are a close match and a source for replacements. Another plane to smooth small areas. A smooth plane, according to some Stanley propaganda " is used for finishing or smoothing off flat surfaces.

Where uneven spots are of slight area, its short length will permit it to locate these irregularities, leaving the work with a smooth surface when finished. While the 2 is certainly scarce when compared to the larger bench planes , proving that its use was rather limited, it nevertheless is a useful tool for when one is faced with some isolated stubborn grain or smoothing smaller pieces of work.

Its small size permits it to work smaller areas more effectively than the larger and more common 4. It's very difficult to close your hand around the tote on this one, unless you have small hands. Be very careful that the lever cap is proper for this plane - it's very easy to grind a 3 lever cap narrower to fit this plane. Look at the sides of the lever cap, when it's clamped in place - a ground 3 lever cap will have its sides projecting well above the highest point on each of the bottom casting's arched sides.

Give the machining along the edges of the lever cap a close inspection to verify that it's a proper 2 lever cap. A common area of damage on the 2 's is at the very rear of the sole, or heel of the plane, where the threaded rod used to secure the tote to the bottom casting is received by a raised boss in the bottom casting.

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On some models of the plane, this area is not flush with the sole proper there are some models that have this area flush with the sole , and sometimes can break. Inspect it carefully for repairs. Sometimes, the threaded rod will be tapped through the sole. This damage is clearly visible by flipping the plane over and looking at the sole.

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  • Similar damage can be found on the larger bench planes. This plane never came equipped with the frog adjusting screw that was offered on the larger bench planes, nor did it experience the changes in the frog's receiver, save for the first H-shaped to the second broad machined area designs see the 3 for an explanation and images of the changes in the frog's receiver. And for those of you who follow the type studies religiously keep in mind that Stanley never knew about the type studies when they were making their stuff , this plane doesn't follow the study very well.

    It seems as if the Stanley employees, given the task of making 2 's, were off in their happy, little 2 -land, oblivious to the changes made to the plane's larger brothers. No model of the 2 has the patent date s cast into it, behind the frog. The brass depth adjustment nut used on this plane is different from all the others.

    On most of the examples excluding the very earliest ones, with their solid nuts , the nut is very slightly hollow concave and is noticeably shallower than those nuts used on the larger bench planes. Check that the nut hasn't been replaced with one off a larger plane. Examples of this plane usually have "BAILEY" cast at their toe, but they don't always, so have a tape measure handy to see if it measures 8" long.

    They also have the larger brass depth adjustment nut like those used on the larger bench planes. The cutter is not rounded at the top, but is angled as it was from the day it was first made. Most of these planes are japanned with the typical black paint, but the very last ones to leave New Britain are instead japanned blue. The "C" designation means that the sole has a series of parallel grooves machined into it. There is no "C" cast into this plane, nor any other of the corrugated bench planes.

    The corrugations are provided to overcome the 'friction' that results between the wood and the sole as the wood becomes true; a small vacuum forms between the two surfaces. Whether this 'friction' becomes a bother to the craftsman depends upon the species of wood being planed and the overall strength or endurance of the dude pushing the plane. I've never really been bothered by the 'friction', but it appears that many others have, judging by the number of corrugated planes out there and the length of time that they were offered. Some also claim that the corrugations are useful on resinous woods - maybe you will, too.

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    Prior to the introduction of corrugations, guys would use wax or oil on the plane's sole. This was normally used on the longer planes, where the amount of 'friction' is certainly greater than that formed on the shorter planes. But for a plane this small, corrugations are rather overkill.

    It was never a popular feature of this particular plane, thus its scarcity. In fact, I have seen fewer 2C 's than I have 1 's.

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    Perhaps I need to ask more 2 's if they mind if I check their bottoms? I've seen some very crude appearing corrugations on many of the bench planes.

    Some of the planes date prior to Stanley's production of them. Whether the planes were corrugated in an attempt to deceive collectors, or whether the planes were corrugated by the owner for his own use is impossible to tell.

    I suspect the reason is true in both cases. Original corrugations run lengthwise to the sole and are perfectly parallel to each other, stop before the toe, the heel, and before and behind the mouth. The corrugations are about as deep as they are wide, have a crisp definition to them, and terminate in a pointed fashion. The corrugations often become filled with workshop schmutz.